It is huckleberry season

A wooden bowl full of dark blueberries on a pale table, green leaves beside it

For about three weeks every August the slopes above the lake turn purple, and the kitchen stops pretending to plan a menu. Huckleberries go into the pancakes at breakfast, the relish with the trout and the tart that closes dinner.

Guests are welcome to pick along the lower trail; take a tub from the kitchen door and leave the bushes by the path for the bears. Whatever you bring back, the pastry kitchen will turn into something by the evening.

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