What the kitchen does with a lake trout

A whole roasted trout on a slate board with lettuce, a slice of tomato and lemon wedges

Most mornings between May and October a small boat ties up at our jetty at half past six, and the kitchen finds out what it is cooking that night. The trout on the menu has usually been in the lake the day before.

Simple, and quickly

Our chef cooks it one of two ways: whole over the grill with brown butter and wild thyme, or filleted and pan-fried skin-side down until it crackles. Anything more, she says, gets in the way.

A fish this fresh does not need a sauce. It needs a hot pan and someone who is paying attention.

Maria, head chef

On the side there is whatever the valley farms sent up that week: new potatoes in June, green beans in July, and in August a spoonful of huckleberry relish that has become the thing guests ask about most.

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