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Why we cook over fire
Gas is easier, cleaner and more forgiving. We use wood anyway, and this is the argument for it.
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The two-day dough
Forty-eight hours in the cold does something that no amount of kneading will.
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A wine list you can actually drink
Forty bottles, not four hundred, and a reason for every one of them.
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What a private dinner actually involves
Eighteen people, one table, and a menu written with you rather than handed to you.
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Six weeks of tomatoes
They are on the menu when they are good and off it when they are not, which is most of the year.
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The pastry section at four in the morning
Everything sweet is finished before the first person unlocks the front door.
