A long list is a way of avoiding a decision. Four hundred bottles means nobody has chosen anything, and the guest is left to work out which of eleven Chardonnays the kitchen actually meant.
Ours is forty. Every one is there because it goes with something we cook, and when a dish comes off the menu the bottle that was chosen for it usually goes with it.
The house red and white are not the cheapest things we could find. They are what we would drink, poured by the glass, and priced so that ordering them is not a small defeat.
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