By two o’clock in July the streets are too hot for anything but getting from one air-conditioned door to the next. So I go where the trees are.
The city has more green corners than people expect: terraced gardens on the hill, old courtyards with fig trees, and a long park that follows the seafront.
Where I go
My favourite is the terraced garden on the hill, where the paths zigzag up through pines and you can see the whole bay between the branches. Bring a book, a big hat and more water than you think.