For about two weeks every autumn the larch trees turn gold, and the forests of the inland Northwest look lit from the inside.
Three days on the Olympic coast
Driftwood, sea stacks and a tide table taped to my top tube: three days of sand, forest roads and cold camps along the wild edge of Washington.
Riding in the fog
Some of my favourite hours on a bike have been the ones where I could not see more than fifty metres ahead.
Above the treeline in the North Cascades
A two-day loop on old fire roads that climbs out of the forest into open meadows, with a camp high enough to watch the peaks turn pink.
Sunset camps and cold dinners
On hot trips I stopped cooking dinner altogether. It turned out to be the best change I made all summer.
Logging roads in the rain
Western Oregon has more gravel than anyone could ride in a lifetime. In the rain, it is also the emptiest place I know.